The Hour Glass


FA: Sam Magro and Pat Kingsbury. September 2008

Suggested Rack:

Double set of cams to #3. Double set of Stoppers including smalls. Alpine Draws. 2 Ropes.


Take the Tower Trail to the North side approach. At the top of the Northside approach take a left towards Belle Fouche Buttress. Find the obvious pod that is The Hourglass.

Pitch 1
Climb up into the pod. This a unique feature on the Tower providing some thoughtful moves. Pull out of the pod and continue up and stay right. Climb the wavy fracture until you traverse right into the final 20 feet of Dump Watt route. End at 2 good belay bolts.
140 feet. 5.11a

Unique moves and good position. Rarely climbed, this route can be dirty. With more traffic it could be one of the good single pitch routes on the NE Face.